Why Burglar Bars Doors Are the Ultimate Security Solution
Glass windows and doors are the single most common point of forced entry in residential break-ins.
A smashed pane or a pried latch is all it takes for an intruder to cross the threshold. Basic burglar bars eliminate that weak spot—but they also block escape routes, pose hazards during fires, and often run afoul of building codes. Burglar bars doors resolve these issues by combining a fixed grille with a hinged door panel:
- Impenetrable Denial: Each panel is built from grade-A structural steel, robot-welded at every joint and anchored into the masonry or frame. Even power tools struggle to breach this barrier.
- Visible Deterrence: The very sight of a heavy-duty door-style grille sends a clear “Protected by SWB” message to opportunistic intruders.
- Unobstructed Egress: SWB’s quick-release mechanisms disengage from the inside in under two seconds—no keys, no tools, no hassle—ensuring you meet or exceed NFPA fire and safety code requirements.
- Aesthetic Integration: Powder-coat finishes in custom hues let you match your trim, siding, or interior décor, turning security into a design statement.
By choosing a burglar bars door, you’re not settling for a compromise—you’re upgrading to a solution that delivers maximum security, code-compliant safety, and long-term peace of mind.

How to Choose the Right Burglar Bars Door for Your Home
Not all door-style grilles are created equal. SWB offers two primary profiles and a range of hardware options to suit any opening, budget, or aesthetic:
Model A – SlimLine Burglar Bars Door
- Profile Thickness: 2 cm steel bars
- Best For: Upper-story windows, guest rooms, home offices where visual impact matters
- Quick-Release: Inside thumb-turn lever disengages hidden pins in one motion
- Finish Options: Standard matte black, white, bronze; custom RAL colors available
Model B – HeavyDuty Burglar Bars Door
- Profile Thickness: 3.5 cm reinforced steel bars with corner gussets
- Best For: Ground-floor windows, basement egress, high-crime areas where forced-entry delay is paramount
- Quick-Release: UL-listed cam lock that unlocks with a single downward press
- Finish Options: Powder-coat in standard and marine-grade cationic epoxy for coastal climates
Hardware & Accessories
- Hinges: Stainless steel 4-inch butt hinges or welded piano hinges for increased load capacity
- Locking Mechanisms: Thumb-turn, keyed cam lock, or combination
- Strike Plates: Flush-mount or surface-mount options to accommodate brick, concrete, or wood frames
- Decorative Grilles: Optional scrollwork or geometric infill panels for a custom look

Burglar Bars Doors: The Foundation of Flawless Installation
Even the strongest burglar bars door fails if it doesn’t fit perfectly. Follow these six precise steps:
- Clean and Inspect the Opening
Remove old caulk, paint chips, and debris from the jamb and sill. A clean surface prevents measurement errors and ensures brackets sit flush. - Verify Frame Plumb and Level
Place your level vertically on both sides and horizontally along the head and sill. Any deviation over 2 mm in 100 cm requires shimming before measuring. - Measure Width Three Times
At the head, mid-rail (if present), and sill, measure the inside-to-inside width of the opening. Record the smallest measurement—this ensures the door clears without binding. - Measure Height Twice
Measure from the interior face of the head to the sill in two locations (left and right). Use the shorter dimension. - Note Wall or Frame Depth
From the interior drywall or plaster surface to the exterior masonry or siding. This determines hinge pin length and bracket projection needed for a flush fit. - Sketch and Label
Even a simple pencil sketch accelerates quoting and minimizes errors. Mark pilot-hole locations if you have an existing hinge or latch.
TIP: Photograph your sketch alongside a measuring tape for SWB’s technical team to verify.

Burglar Bars Doors: Step-by-Step Installation Guide
With your custom SWB burglar bars door delivered—complete with pre-welded frame, hinge plates, quick-release hardware, and strike plates—it’s time to install.
Tools & Materials You’ll Need
- Drill and bits (masonry or metal, sized per anchor instructions)
- ¼″–⅜″ steel anchors rated for your wall substrate
- Impact driver or power screwdriver
- Carpenter’s level, tape measure, pencil
- Rubber mallet, shim stock (plastic or wood), safety glasses, work gloves
- Silicone sealant and caulking gun
- Drop cloth to protect interior flooring
1. Lay Out Components
Unpack your door assembly on a clean surface, identify top, bottom, hinge, and latch sides. Confirm quick-release hardware is pre-aligned.
2. Install Top Hinge Bracket
- Hold the top hinge plate flush to the interior face of the head jamb.
- Level horizontally and mark pilot holes through hinge-plate screw holes.
- Drill pilot holes to anchor depth + 5 mm.
- Insert anchors and secure hinge plate snugly—avoid overtightening.
3. Install Bottom Hinge Bracket
- Position the bottom hinge plate directly below the top plate.
- Verify vertical alignment with the level against a straightedge connecting both plates.
- Mark, pre-drill, anchor, and secure as above.
4. Mount the Door Panel
- With assistance (doors can weigh 30–50 kg), lift the door assembly and align hinge leaves.
- Insert hinge pins or slide the door leaf onto welded hinge barrels.
- Test the swing: the door should open smoothly without rubbing.
5. Install Strike Plate and Latch Hardware
- Close the door and mark where the cam or latch bolt meets the frame.
- Hold the strike plate in position, mark pilot holes, and chisel a shallow recess if needed for a flush fit.
- Drill pilot holes and secure strike plate.
- Test quick-release action from inside—ensure the cam withdraws fully and the door swings open freely.
6. Shim and Level for Perfect Operation
- If you notice binding, close the door and slide thin shims between hinge leaves or behind hinge plates to correct misalignment.
- Re-tighten hinge screws and re-test.
7. Seal and Finish
- Run a bead of silicone sealant along the exterior perimeter of hinge plates and strike-plate edges to prevent water intrusion.
- Touch up any scratched powder-coat with the matching spray included in your kit.

Burglar Bars Doors: requently Asked Questions
Q: Can I install a burglar bars door myself?
A: If you’re comfortable with power tools and following precise measurements, yes. Every SWB kit includes detailed templates and hardware. For unsteady ladders or masonry drilling, consider our certified installer network.
Q: Do burglar bars doors require permits?
A: Many jurisdictions require building permits or inspections for window security bars doors. SWB provides stamped drawings, UL certification sheets, and installation instructions to streamline approvals.
Q: What happens during a power outage or emergency when I need to exit?
A: SWB’s quick-release cams are mechanical, not electrical. They function flawlessly without power, ensuring you can exit in any situation.
Q: Will the burglar bars door rust over time?
A: All SWB products are powder-coated with marine-grade finishes and use stainless steel hardware. In aggressive environments, follow our maintenance schedule to preserve the finish.
Q: How do burglar bars doors compare to security screens?
A: Security screens offer insect protection and some forced-entry resistance, but they can’t match the delay and deterrence of thick steel grilles. Burglar bars doors are designed specifically for forced-entry prevention.

Burglar Bars Doors: Final Thoughts and Next Steps
Your windows can either be your home’s weakest link or its toughest defense. Burglar bars doors from SWB deliver uncompromising security with integrally safe egress—no more choosing between locking yourself in and protecting your loved ones. From accurate measurement and professional installation to routine maintenance and code compliance, SWB supports you every step of the way.
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